At play in the fields of the lord
GETAWAYS • Napa/Sonoma Fine Dining Report
Lee Pitofsky, aka @finediningnyc on Instagram, is the fine dining correspondent for FOUND NY. He’s dined at Thomas Keller’s Per Se 50 times. He’s also a regular at California’s best restaurants. Here, a trio of his dispatches from a recent Napa/Sonoma trip to check in on old friends, including Keller’s The French Laundry:
SPOOL KIDS: True to its name, SingleThread Farm in Sonoma remains one of the most singular restaurants in the country. Combining California bounty from their farm with Japanese influences and kaiseki-style cuisine, a recent menu delivered one of my best meals there yet. It began with a bang (as is the norm here) with hasune, their version of canapés, already covering the table as we were seated. From there, highlights included kanpachi flown in from Japan (with Koshihikari rice), salted cherry leaf blossom, cherry boshi, sakura gelée, and sea lettuce. Then, duck liver parfait with mizuna, Badger Flame beets, orange, walnut, and pain d’epice showcased a most seamless combination of richness and ingredient-driven cuisine. All this, served alongside one of America’s best wine lists.
→ SingleThread Farm (Healdsburg, CA) • 131 North St • Daily 4-830p • $475 per.
WRINKLE-RESISTANT: The French Laundry continues to deliver world-class service and perfectly executed California-influenced French cuisine. To do it right, begin with Champagne in the courtyard and end with vintage spirits — and, if you’re inclined, cigars (in the outdoor cigar lounge, of course). In between, expect all the caviar, truffles, and Wagyu one can handle. A highlight from my most recent visit: A5 Miyazaki “Wellington,” Japanese Wagyu beef enrobed in brioche with black trumpet mushroom "tapenade," caramelized cipollini onion, garden watercress and "sauce Bordelaise.” Simply unforgettable.
→ The French Laundry (Yountville, CA) • 6640 Washington St • Daily 4-8p • $390 per.
THE SIMPLE THINGS: A Napa Valley standby from chef Chris Kostow of the Restaurant at Meadowood, The Charter Oak (above) is always my first stop for lunch in wine country. It’s the simplicity that always stands out. Begin with raw vegetables from the 3.5-acre farm with fermented soy dip — a crudité without equal. Grilled medjool dates with ham garum, walnut oil, and sea salt is another must. And the cheeseburger is the best in the valley. A side note: While the beverage program, both cocktails and wine are top notch, they offer free corkage for the first bottle (and $50 thereafter). –Lee Pitofsky
→ The Charter Oak (St Helena, CA) • 1050 Charter Oak Ave • Mon-Thurs 1130a-9p, Fri-Sun 11a-9p.
