At the pass

The Kitchen Table at Hotel Wailea (Maui)

GETAWAYS • Hawaii

Earlier this year, I found myself stranded in Maui, caught in the midst of a tropical storm. The rain was relentless, the kind that turns the ocean into a blurred horizon, and we resigned ourselves to a quiet night in at the hotel. Little did I know I was about to have one of the most unforgettable dining experiences of my life.

The Kitchen Table has only two seats available each night. Tucked inside The Restaurant at Hotel Wailea, it offers a front-row experience to the inner workings of a high-end kitchen. The storm had created an unexpected opening in the book, and our timing was just right.

Seated on the pass, we watched as the chefs orchestrated the evening’s service, each movement precise and deliberate. Sous-chef Nicolas was our guide, chatting with us as he plated and checked dishes, creating an atmosphere both exclusive and unpretentious. The rhythm of the kitchen was mesmerizing — orders flying in, sauces spooned, proteins seared to perfection.

The Kitchen Table’s five-course menu takes full advantage of Hawaii’s diverse bounty. We started with a delicate tartlet of local fish and caviar, followed by a crudo with bright citrus. Then came duck ragù tagliatelle, leading into a perfectly cooked onaga (red snapper). The highlight: a duo of A5 Snake River Farms ribeye and Japanese Kobe beef, served with forbidden rice and bordelaise sauce. Dessert was a pineapple semifreddo, a refreshing conclusion to a memorable meal.

Originally built in the ’80s as a private club for Japanese members, Hotel Wailea was acquired in 2008, transformed into an adults-only locally owned and independently operated Relais & Châteaux retreat. With just 72 suites, it’s the antithesis of the mega-resorts lining the island’s shores — the area itself provides a more intimate experience compared to Kaanapali, which feels like a cross between The White Lotus and Vegas-on-the-sea.

Hotel Wailea offers two other private dining experiences: The Treehouse, a single table set beneath a canopy of mango and avocado trees with a private chef and ocean views, and Table 24, nestled in the lush garden offering a curated menu served tableside by the chefs themselves. Guests often need to book these well in advance — unless, of course, you’re lucky enough to find yourself caught in a tropical storm. –Victoire Loup

→ The Kitchen Table at Hotel Wailea (Maui) • 555 Kaukahi St • $1100 for two (optional $250+ per wine pairing) • Booking instructions.