Belly of the beast

ABSteak (Union Square)

RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table

The Skinny: Professional snowboarder turned Las Vegas chef Akira Back is returning pizzaz to Union Square with a second location of his LA restaurant, AB Steak, opened last fall in an underground lair on Ellis St.

The Vibe: A glossy black flight of stairs leads below street level to an interior reminiscent of the inside of a cow: oxblood red marble, arches resembling ribs, and prime cuts of wagyu on display (in case the other references aren’t clear enough). A circular glass wine case completes the transformation of what was previously Infusion Lounge into Las Vegas-level splendor.

The Food: A luxe grill sits atop each table, constructed to suck the smoke downward, keeping it from lingering in clothes or hair. But this isn’t a DIY grilling situation: Servers brandish long chopsticks and scissors, grilling your steak of choice to perfection before your eyes. The beef is flown in from across the U.S., Japan, and Australia, to be dry-aged in-house for up to 45 days. The marinated galbi is bathed in bone broth, lending it extra richness. In addition to a solid lineup of banchan, the gurgling pot of spicy tofu jjigae is worth your attention. For dessert, there’s a cute little chocolate cow stuffed with cake.

The Verdict: A Korean steakhouse firing at Vegas levels of fun might be a desperately needed kick in the pants for an otherwise subdued downtown SF. Serious Wagyu fans will be delighted, as will anyone ready to have an unserious good time. –Becky Duffett

→ ABSteak (Union Square) • 124 Ellis St • Tue-Thu 5-10p, Fri-Sat 5-11p • Reserve.