Duck, duck, duck

Go Duck Yourself (Bernal Heights)

RESTAURANTS • FOUND Table

The Backstory: One of the great duck legends of Chinatown relocated to Bernal Heights last year, when the former Hing Lung Company reopened as Go Duck Yourself. Fortunately, the roast duck remains just as crispy and fatty as ever, now served in a modern setting.

The Experience: It’s gone from a classic Chinatown takeout experience (i.e. ducks hanging in the window, line snaking out the door) to a striking dining room looking out onto Cortland Street. There are black honeycomb tile floors, natural wood, concrete gray, and industrial light fixtures. A hand-painted sign with a tattoo-style font and a meat cleaver gleam on the door.

Brothers Eric and Simon Cheung can be spotted deboning birds in the open kitchen. While it’s tempting to pick up half a duck for takeout ($33 per), it’s worth sitting down for the full feast. Round out the table with steamed bao buns, shredded scallions, and sesame hoisin, as well as lotus leaf-wrapped sticky rice, and garlicky greens caramelized with a shot of whiskey. They arrive on a mismatched spread of blue-and-white floral plates.

Why It’s FOUND: Go Duck Yourself is repping the next generation of Cantonese American food in San Francisco, and giving the iconic dish of roast duck a cool new dining experience. –Becky Duffett

→ Go Duck Yourself (Bernal Heights) • 439 Cortland Ave • Wed-Sun, lunch 11a-230p, dinner 5-830p.