Italian comfort

Golden Bear Station (Sonoma)

GETAWAYS • Sonoma 

Late last year, Chef Joshua Smookler and wife/partner Heidy He opened Golden Bear Station, their second Sonoma County effort since relocating there during the pandemic. The couple earned East Coast acclaim with their short-lived Mu Ramen in Long Island City, then opened Animo in Wine Country, where it was named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants in 2022. A desire for bigger digs prompted them to shutter that spot and head up the road to Kenwood for Golden Bear, their new pizza- and pasta-focused restaurant.

The kitchen’s efforts are centered around a wood oven, out of which comes perfectly blistered, Neapolitan-style pizzas, as well as roasted pork chops, dry-aged Porterhouse steaks, and loup de mer (whole branzino), all great for sharing. Smookler’s perfectly executed pastas include takes on amatriciana, bolognese, and cacio e pepe, each made with fresh pasta.

In the dining room, Heidy is a constant — a warm, smiling presence quick with a wine recommendation from a list heavy on local Sonoma bottles. 

BONUS INTEL: This winter, the couple plans to reopen Animo next door to the Golden Bear, which means a return of the kimchi-pastrami fried rice that put it on the map. A preview of that upcoming menu is available at an ongoing series of Animo Sessions pop-up meals at the Golden Bear, which run on Sundays through November. –Jay Barmann

→ Golden Bear Station (Sonoma) • 8445 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood • Wed-Sun 430-9p • Reserve.