Mission: Mediterranean
Anatolian Table (Mission)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Newly open in the former Yellow Moto Pizzeria space at 18th and Valencia, Anatolian Table is the latest Mediterranean restaurant venture from Cypriot chef-owner Coskun Abik, who also owns Dunya on Polk Street and both Lark Bistro and Blind Butcher in the Castro.
The Vibe: The airy dining room retains the charms and inviting polished wood and green subway tile of the original buildout by the previous inhabitant, Flour + Water Pizzeria. The front bar has been converted to a wine bar, the kitchen remains open, and the tables are packed in, New York-style. Most nights, the place is bustling.
The Drink: The wine menu is concise by SF standards, with 10 options by the glass, including a Provencal rosé and a red Mavroudi from Greece. The dozen or so red bottles on the list include several uncommon-to-SF Turkish and Greek varietals. There are also a handful of Greek and Turkish beer options by the bottle.
The Food: Abik’s menu makes good use of the former pizzeria’s massive, multi-deck oven to produce glorious Turkish flatbreads, including a classic lahmacun topped with spiced minced beef and lamb; Yumurtali pide, the boat-shaped flatbread filled with kesseri and feta cheeses, za'atar, and herbs, and topped with egg; and Pastirma pide, topped with thin slices of Anatolian cured beef and kasseri cheese. The mezze combo platter is a classy presentation of nine mezzes, including some top-notch falafel and badimcan, a delicious, chunky Turkish eggplant dip with peppers and marash chile flakes.
The Verdict: Turkish fare isn’t the easiest to find in San Francisco, but Anatolian Table offers some of the city’s best. It’s a solid choice as a date night or just a weeknight graze-fest. –Jay Barmann
→ Anatolian Table (Mission) • 702 Valencia St • Mon-Fri 5p-10p, Sat-Sun 5p-11p • Walk-ins only.