RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: In SoMa, daytime cafe Cafe Shoji started pouring coffee and matcha in March, and in May, its evening form Bar Shoji opened for cocktails and dinner. The swanky, split-personality spot is the latest from the omakase masters behind The Shota, with chef Intu-on Kornnawong — late of hit Oakland spot Jo’s Modern Thai and Kin Khao — turning out stunning Japanese- and Thai-inflected dishes.
The Vibe: On a recent Friday, a row of Waymos dropped off couples at the door as groups waited to check in for reservations. (In the wake of a recent drop-in from Kamala Harris, expect, perhaps, a need for slightly more patience at the door.) The elegant, long bar from the space’s former inhabitant Trou Normand remains, flanked by deep booths and tall windows. They painted over the cheeky lady above the bar, however, replacing her with a huge metallic mural of cranes and tigers (in line with the moody, golden den motif).
The Food: The ceviche, sashimi, and crudités are among the city’s best right now. Local halibut ceviche comes in a milky coconut marinade surrounded by crispy nori leaves. A whipped fermented soybean dip with a crater full of bright green scallion oil gets a wreath of flowering broccoli and lunar carrots. There are also a couple of sandwiches and a burger, served on a simmering fondue skillet, sure to be a social media hit.
The Drink: The creative cocktail list stars Japanese whiskey and Asian flavors. Start with the Miyabi “Japanese Rose,” a mix of gin, lychee, rose, and bubbles, lighter and lovelier than a lychee martini. Then sink in with a Noguchii “Okinawan Woodpecker,” featuring whiskey and bourbon washed in wagyu fat and wafted with smoke.
The Verdict: A gorgeous Japanese and Thai romance. It’s great to have a “casual” spinoff from the Shota team, and to have Kornnawong back on this side of the Bay. –Becky Duffett
→ Shoji (SoMa) • 140 New Montgomery St, Ste 1200 • Cafe Shoji Mon-Fri 7a-3p, Bar Shoji Mon-Fri 5p-12a • Reserve.