Nothing but net
Meski (Tenderloin)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Opened last month in the Tenderloin, Meski is a glossy Afro-Latino cocktail lounge from a Bay Area dream team: repeat Top Chef contestant Nelson German (who also owns Oakland’s Alamar and Sobre Mesa); restaurateur Guma Fassil, owner of the long-running Meski’s Kitchen & Garden in Berkeley; and Golden State Warriors power forward (and first-time restaurant investor) Draymond Green.
The Vibe: In the double-decker corner space that used to house cocktail lounges Members Only and The Saratoga, a street-level bar drops to a lounge below. Designer Kalkidan Gebreyohannes-Royster wove grass and flowers into light fixtures letting them climb between floors, and lined the hallways with spice market-style nets and baskets. Artist Taylor Smalls painted the portrait of a woman in braids overlooking the dining room.
The Food: German is Dominican and Fassil is Ethiopian, so feel free to call it fusion, or at least Afro-Caribbean inspired. The yetsom veggie platter — scooped up with injera flatbread, and sambusa triangles stuffed with pollo guisado — features flavors familiar to fans of German’s other spots, with a Fassil-inspired twist. There are also options tailored to the baller crowd, like caviar service with berbere crème fraîche and tomahawk steaks drizzled down with salsa macha.
The Drink: Cocktails run fruity, floral, and fun. The Bidi Bidi Bam Bam rocks tequila, watermelon, and chile, with a belly band of chamoy sauce swirled around the center. The Ethiopian Milk Punch combines Japanese whisky and Ethiopian coffee with a wash of Cocoa Puffs, with a few crisp bites of the cereal skewered over a big rock.
The Verdict: It’s so satisfying to finally have German serving upscale comforts on this side of the Bay, with Meski bringing plenty of star swagger to the table. –Becky Duffett
→ Meski (Tenderloin) • 1000 Larkin St • Wed-Thu & Sun 5–11p, Fri-Sat 5p–1a • Reserve.