RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Husband-and-wife restaurateurs Paul Iglesias and Sophia Akbar have already paid tribute to the former’s Colombian heritage at Parche — and now, new and nearby restaurant Jaji gives Akbar’s Pashtun heritage a chance to shine in Uptown Oakland.
The Vibe: An airy main dining room and bar area make for a lively, bustling good time. Floating above diner are over 300 fabric panels, in poppy-inspired shades of orange, yellow, and pink, while small vases of poppies ring the room. Woven rugs from Akbar’s family line an area behind the bar dubbed B.Akbar, an intimate zone with couches and a turntable that will host 20-person cocktail tastings.
The Drink: The cocktail menu makes ample use of spices common in Afghan cuisine. Saffron makes for a beautifully gold-hued, subtly flavored, tequila-based Saffron Martini. Turmeric makes its way into the very delicious Ancient Roots, a spin on a whiskey sour featuring Redwood Empire bourbon, oloroso sherry, turmeric syrup, egg white, and lemon.
The Food: Akbar’s mother and grandmother contributed family recipes that Iglesias then modernized, resulting in a menu bursting with Afghani flavors in fun, sprightly dish compositions. Starter highlights include the hummus-like, mildly spiced Mamma’s Daal, served with toasted flatbreads for dipping; and the Shola-Qorooti Aracnini, small croquettes made with rice and mung beans, served with walnut oil and qoroot (fermented yogurt) aioli. Among the larger dishes, the early star is whole roasted trout served with house-made chili crisp, roasted lemon, and a salad of herbs and microgreens.
The Verdict: Jaji seems destined to attract plenty of fans for those both unfamiliar and well acquainted with the flavors of Afghan cuisine — which, until now, has been found mainly in traditional forms in the far reaches of the East Bay. With its central Oakland setting, it’s also a terrific addition to the multicultural array of food the city already has to offer, and the cocktail program and B.Akbar space — as well as a big private dining room — bring a fresh party energy to Oakland’s Uptown. –Jay Barmann
→ Jaji (Oakland) • 422 24th St • Sun & Wed-Thur 5p-930, Fri-Sat 5-10p • Reserve.
Photo: Hardy Wilson.