Power lunching

RTB Wine Lounge, Tadich Grill, Sam's Grill, Outer Sunset, Outer Richmond, Paloma, Magnetic Fields, Pelican Inn, SingleThread Farm, MORE

Apr 24, 2024

RESTAURANTS • First Word

Fillmore’s phoenix

The Skinny: Rising from the ashes of Avery, the Michelin-starred jewel in Fillmore that chef Rodney Wages picked up and moved to Edinburgh last November, RTB Wine Lounge finds the right balance of luxe and accessibility with a stellar wine list and elevated bar bites in a fine-dining-worthy space.

The Vibe: RTB's unmarked storefront leads to a hideaway that gets better the deeper in you wander. Down a flight of stairs, there’s a small lounge with a wraparound couch, perhaps for a glass of bubbles. Back on the main floor, generously spaced modern noir couches and posh booths afford a level of comfort not often seen in San Francisco's tightly packed establishments.

The Food: The small plates menu, designed by Wages, features nuanced spins on some of Avery's classics. Signature tortellini in brodo reaches unami bliss with shitake mushroom and cultured butter. Chicken wings stuffed with scallion rice blended with beef tendon fat jolt when dipped in house fermented dipping sauce. For dessert: a pizzelle beeswax ice cream sandwich with burnt honey powder.

The Drinks: French varietals dominate the wines by the glass, but there are also impressive California and sake flights. The bottles list is largely a holdover from Avery's cellar, and your best bet might be to put yourself in the hands of general manager and beverage program head Sean Widger, one of a number of Avery alums on the RTB roster.

The Verdict: An ideal spot for a pour (or two) and memorable snacks to go with, especially when you can’t make it to Scotland. Bonus: It’s open late, until 11p Tuesday through Friday and 2a on Saturday. –Adrian Spinelli

→ RTB Wine Lounge (Fillmore) • 1552 Fillmore St • Reserve.

RESTAURANTS • The Nines

Power lunch

Holbrook House (Fidi), sleek barroom, chopped salad, caviar service
Tadich Grill (Fidi), 175-year-old seafood destination, epic bar seating
One Market (Embarcadero), enduring ‘90s icon now with smoked brisket sandwiches
Balboa Café (The Marina), good times gastropub from Gov Newsom’s hospitality group
Fog City (Embarcadero), wood-fired comfort food adjacent to Levi’s Plaza
Tartine Manufactory (The Mission), salads and sandwiches straight from the artisan bakery’s mothership
Kokkari Estiatorio (Fidi), classy purveyor of grilled fish and artichoke souvlaki
Wildseed (Cow Hollow), vegan trailblazer with a chic clientele and thin-crust pizza
Sam’s Grill (Fidi, above), tuxedoed servers, baked clams, booths with buzzers

Additions or subtractions? Hit reply or found@itsfoundsf.com.

SF RESTAURANT LINKS: The Starlight Room — ahem, Starlite — shines again • New cocktail lounge Corner Bar debuts today in Mill Valley • LA’s Sushi Roku opening new outpost in Palo Alto next Tuesday • What makes a good coffee shop?

REAL ESTATE • Sold

Avenues ascendant

Even as working from home has abated, the (ostensibly pandemic-fueled) rush to snap up single-family homes in SF’s outer neighborhoods has not. Outer Sunset and Outer Richmond are especially booming, with homes in the plus-19th Avenues moving for what strike some as bargain prices. Don’t be fooled: Many of these homes were late 1950s and early ’60s constructions, and until recently, were occupied by their original owners. For every $100K it looks like you’re saving, a potential $250K in deferred maintenance may await.

Don’t worry, it’ll be worth it in the end when you have that beach view, a pleasant walk to coffee, and a huge yard to blow off some post-reno steam. Here, now, three recent sales of note among this cohort. –Eve Batey

→ 658 43rd Avenue (Outer Richmond, above) • 2 BR/2 BA 1780 SF • Updated Marina-style with two-car parking and an oversized lot • Listed 2/8/24 for $1.995M, sold: 2/22/24 • Sold price: $2.25M • Agents: Lyle Chip McAllister and Par Hanji, Compass.

→ 2495 31st Avenue (Parkside) • 4 BR/3 BA 2423 SF • 1955-era Ranch-style on corner lot and double garage • Listed 2/5/24 for $1.748M, sold: 2/20/24 • Sold price: $1.8M • Agent: Derek Nazzal, Dudum Real Estate.

→ 1563 27th Avenue (Outer Sunset) • 5 BR/4 BA 2440 SF • Center patio home from 1940 with original crown molding • Listed 1/12/24 for $1.395M, sold: 2/13/24 • Sold price: $1.580M • Agent: Kevin Birmingham, Park North.

SF WORK AND PLAY LINKS: Fresh Stonestown details: 3500 homes and a ‘main street’ • SF housing inventory continues to tick up • New private club The Bank at Amador plans summer opening in Fidi • Can politicians convince Macy’s to stay put in Union Square?

WORK • Wednesday Routine

New in town

STEPHANIE FELS • founder • Blue Cove Preserves
Neighborhood you live in: Potrero Hill

It’s Thursday morning. What’s the scene at your workplace?
I usually have a cup of tea (Earl Grey or green) and do some yoga, which helps me start the day with a clear mind. Then I'll hop on a bike and head to a coworking space in Downtown San Francisco. I'll either pack my lunch or grab one at various places Downtown — I love going to the Ferry Building. During the day, I might meet with friends for coffee to hear about the latest developments in the tech industry (I had a 15-year career in tech prior to starting Blue Cove).

What’s on the agenda for today?
A few things: I'm coordinating a trip to Portland for the Good Food Awards, as I'm a finalist this year, and it’ll be an opportunity to meet with potential wholesale clients/buyers. I'm also working on advancing two significant opportunities, one of which is a five-star hotel in Sonoma County, the other, a retail opportunity with a large luxury retailer in NYC. I also need to do a social media update, since I'm creating all my content as a solopreneur.

Any restaurant plans today, tonight, this weekend?
Yes! I'm going to Zuni Cafe tomorrow night for dinner. I may go to another landmark, Foreign Cinema, for brunch this weekend. I moved to San Francisco only three months ago, so I'm hitting the top places.

How about a little leisure or culture?
I recently hiked a trail in Muir Beach with a group of friends. Afterwards, we stopped at the Pelican Inn for a refreshing drink and some food. Another fun activity: a miso making class from an award-winning Japanese chef (Mariko Grady), who makes various types of miso for Michelin-star restaurants in the Bay Area, like Lazy Bear in the Mission.

Any weekend getaways?
We go to Tahoe at least two or three times during the winter to ski, and it's a summer destination for us, too. It's a stunning place. South of San Francisco, there are beautiful spots I've visited, including Half Moon Bay, Big Sur, and Carmel.

What was your last great vacation?
I just spent a week in Ecuador visiting my family. The country is one of the most biodiverse in the world, between its mountainous region of the Andes, the tropical coast, and the Amazon rainforest. And did I mention, Ecuador has 80+ volcanoes, and a dozen of them are active? I also love going to markets and seeing endless types of exotic fruits, and having a few local dishes like locro (a potato-based soup that is a traditional dish across Ecuador, Peru, Chile and other Latin American countries). Other typical dishes include shrimp ceviche, humitas, llapingachos, mote pillo, bolones de verde... I'll let the curious travelers among you look those up.

GOODS & SERVICES • FOUND Shop

A classic Paloma

“My hoarder’s cabin” is how Laureano Faedi referred to Paloma, his tiny, jam-packed Hayes Valley shop that became a routine stop for aesthetes like David Sedaris who vibe with Faedi’s mix of American West, Japan, and “I don’t know, stuff I like?” Right now, he likes vintage Parisian tumblers, hand-sewn leather bags, and antique happi coats reworked for city life — all of which have a lot more room to breathe since Paloma moved to roomier Outer Richmond digs in late ’23.

Born in Argentina, Faedi came to San Francisco in his teens, working in design for companies like Levi’s before launching his own business in the aughts. Along the way, he taught himself screen printing, how to sew, and hand-dyeing techniques (frequently involving indigo, as evidenced by his oft-blue hands).

The move — from buzzy downtown to a quiet block a quick walk from the beach — was a risk for a shop that sells $400 coats from obscure designers and $84 flour sack shirts. But Faedi is glad he made the switch. “I know it’ll take some time for people to know we’re here,” he says, “but everyone who comes in seems so stoked that we’re out here. I never felt that way at the other place.”

The Ticket: Faedi sells custom bags for folks from laptop warriors to skateboarders who want a grownup way to tote gear; if none of the bags in the shop suit you, he’s likely to offer to make you your dream satchel. Patience is key. Oh, and there’s a keg of Brooks Dry Cider behind the counter, so if you linger, a drink may be in the cards. –Eve Batey

→ Shop: Paloma (Outer Richmond) • 4412 Cabrillo St • Tue-Sat 11a-6p, Sun 9a-12p.

CULTURE & LEISURE • Book of Love

Magnetic Fields, “69 Love Songs” 25th Anniversary • Curran Theatre (Union Square), Sun @ 730p, box, $76 per
Lettuce with special guest John Scofield, Miner Auditorium • SFJAZZ (Civic Center), Sat @ 930p, main left, $95 per
Pirates vs Giants, Oracle Park (SoMa), Sat @ 605p, section PFC108, $125 per

GETAWAYS • Napa/Sonoma Fine Dining Report

At play in the fields of the lord

Lee Pitofsky, aka @finediningnyc on Instagram, is the fine dining correspondent for FOUND NY. He’s dined at Thomas Keller’s Per Se 50 times. He’s also a regular at California’s best restaurants. Here, a trio of his dispatches from a recent Napa/Sonoma trip to check in on old friends, including Keller’s The French Laundry:

SPOOL KIDS: True to its name, SingleThread Farm in Sonoma remains one of the most singular restaurants in the country. Combining California bounty from their farm with Japanese influences and kaiseki-style cuisine, a recent menu delivered one of my best meals there yet. It began with a bang (as is the norm here) with hasune, their version of canapés, already covering the table as we were seated. From there, highlights included kanpachi flown in from Japan (with Koshihikari rice), salted cherry leaf blossom, cherry boshi, sakura gelée, and sea lettuce. Then, duck liver parfait with mizuna, Badger Flame beets, orange, walnut, and pain d’epice showcased a most seamless combination of richness and ingredient-driven cuisine. All this, served alongside one of America’s best wine lists.
→ SingleThread Farm (Healdsburg, CA) • 131 North St • Daily 4-830p • $475 per.

WRINKLE-RESISTANT: The French Laundry continues to deliver world-class service and perfectly executed California-influenced French cuisine. To do it right, begin with Champagne in the courtyard and end with vintage spirits — and, if you’re inclined, cigars (in the outdoor cigar lounge, of course). In between, expect all the caviar, truffles, and Wagyu one can handle. A highlight from my most recent visit: A5 Miyazaki “Wellington,” Japanese Wagyu beef enrobed in brioche with black trumpet mushroom "tapenade," caramelized cipollini onion, garden watercress and "sauce Bordelaise.” Simply unforgettable.
→ The French Laundry (Yountville, CA) • 6640 Washington St • Daily 4-8p • $390 per.

THE SIMPLE THINGS: A Napa Valley standby from chef Chris Kostow of the Restaurant at Meadowood, The Charter Oak (above) is always my first stop for lunch in wine country. It’s the simplicity that always stands out. Begin with raw vegetables from the 3.5-acre farm with fermented soy dip — a crudité without equal. Grilled medjool dates with ham garum, walnut oil, and sea salt is another must. And the cheeseburger is the best in the valley. A side note: While the beverage program, both cocktails and wine are top notch, they offer free corkage for the first bottle (and $50 thereafter). –Lee Pitofsky
→ The Charter Oak (St Helena, CA) • 1050 Charter Oak Ave • Mon-Thurs 1130a-9p, Fri-Sun 11a-9p.

GETAWAYS LINKS: California may ban CLEAR from airports • What it’s like flying Hawaiian Airlines new business class suites • Lisa Vanderpump’s new restaurant at Harveys Lake Tahoe has opened • Cutting-edge coffees are coming from… Sacramento?

ASK FOUND

First, a quick primer on how this works: You send us the pressing questions of the day (on dining, services, living in the Bay Area). We all put our heads together (us, FOUND, + you, FOUND subscribers, who are also FOUND) in search of truth and beauty.

Three FOUND subscriber PROMPTS for which we are seeking intel:

What San Francisco hotel do you always recommend for out-of-town guests?
My friends and I are searching for a new day spa for a weekend drop-in. What are the latest FOUND options?
What’s your favorite restaurant in the Bay Area (if you haven’t told us already)?

Got answers or more questions? Hit reply or email found@itsfoundsf.com.