RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Inside the revamped Transamerica complex, Cafe Sebastian opened in November under the guidance of chef Brad Kilgore. Dinner is served until 8p Tue-Sat, but the restaurant is buzziest during breakfast and lunch, with an audience of building tenants, tourists, and the (gradually returning) FiDi weekday warrior crowd.
The Vibe: The space is spare but tastefully appointed, with polished concrete floors and slick Scandi-chic tables and concave-wood-backed chairs. Staff will point you to tables, but otherwise, it’s a QR-code order situation when seated, takeout at the counter.
The Food: Early highlights include a mortadella sandwich on sourdough focaccia dressed with cherry-apricot mostarda and pistachio pistou, and Kilgore’s open-faced “BLT,” which is actually two slabs of pork belly on toast with harissa-tomato compote, frisée, and dijon (order the add-on pommes Anna, too — delicious, if somewhat tiny).
You’ll also find pork belly in a “bacon and eggs” dish for breakfast, served alongside a soft scramble with cheddar. And toasts are available all day, topped with ricotta mousse and jam, or smoked salmon and fromage blanc. There’s also an excellent fudge brownie available daily, in addition to an array of daintier pastries, like a Japanese brown butter cinnamon roll and three kinds of housemade babka.
The Verdict: A new oasis tucked next to the Transamerica Redwood Park for coffee, fresh-pressed juices, pastries, and top-notch sandwiches. –Jay Barmann
→ Cafe Sebastian • 545 Sansome St • Mon 8a-4p, Tue-Fri 8a-8p, Sat 9a-8p, Sun 9a-4p • Reserve.