Ring it in

Bar Maritime (Union Square)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

Tucked inside a wood-paneled, century-old space in Union Square, Bar Maritime is a place fans of classic San Francisco will appreciate.

The former Burritt Room, renovated by Los Angeles-based Sur Mesure Partners, swung open on the second floor of the renovated Palihotel in February, reborn as a casual seafood bar.

The current cocktail menu, from local bar star Larry Piaskowy (Rich Table, True Laurel), includes a couple of pre-batched classics kept freezer cold — a gin or vodka martini and an Old Pal, featuring a house rye blend, Campari, and dry vermouth — as well as a whimsical selection of Piaskowy creations. There’s a “Tuna” Margarita, so named because it features prickly pear puree (“tuna” is slang for the fruit in Mexico); and the house Maritime Martini featuring Japanese flavors of plum wine and sake. Clarified coconut milk punch All That Glitters is like an ever-so-slightly smoky pina colada.

An adjacent restaurant space, Maritime Boat Club, is set to debut this spring, but Bar Maritime has its own substantial food menu from chef George Dingle (Monsieur Benjamin, Benu). There’s a pair of rotating crudos, a solid shrimp cocktail, and an oyster service that arrives in a small wooden boat. There are also larger plates like mussels and steak frites, but you could have a sweet date night or pre-dinner snack with just some fries and fried shrimp, coated in Old Bay-seasoned panko and served with an excellent remoulade for dipping.

At last call, there’s a free round of shots for anyone left standing, after which a bartender rings a ship’s bell to send everyone home. –Jay Barmann

→ Bar Maritime (Union Square) • 417 Stockton St, 2nd fl • Wed-Thu 4-11p, Fri 4p-12a, Sat 2p-12a, Sun 2-9p • Walk-ins only.