RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: A Marina steakhouse institution since 1987, Izzy’s reopened last week after a down-to-the-studs renovation.
Founder Sam DuVall died in 2020, so it’s now in the hands of his daughter Samantha DuVall Bechtel (who happens to have married into one of the richest families in America). Whether you’re an old-timer processing feelings about its fresh updates, or seeing Izzy’s with virgin eyes, it’s hard to resist the thrill of being inside the seasoned steakhouse. Half the fun will be watching how regulars feel about its fresh updates.
The Vibe: While it looks like a cozy tavern with gold lettering from the outside, Izzy’s sprawls generously across two stories and 4800 square feet. Charged with the reno, NY-based design firm Gachot did not hold back, raising ceilings, opening a skylight, and collecting 127 pieces of art that line a satisfyingly precise gallery wall upstairs. Yet much of the original character remains, including the original bar, black-and-white marble floors, and coveted back booths.
The Food: Like me, Izzy’s is clearly a child of the ’90s, so if you’re nostalgic for blackened seasoning and berry coulis, you’ve come to the right place. New chef Daniel Lucero has the challenge of maintaining the classics — the filet mignon, potatoes au gratin, and creamed spinach — while making a few fresh updates, like honey-glazed carrots and broccoli di ciccio. The signature option is to get your steak blackened, rolled in Creole-Cajun seasoning that makes for a dark sear — it sounds anachronistic, but it’s worth trying at least once.
The Drink: A steakhouse calls for a classic cocktail, which is definitely possible, but the menu also offers a few fun twists — a Negroni gone sour with tart lemon and frothy egg white, an old fashioned washed with bacon fat, and an espresso martini that gets a minty freshening via Fernet.
The Verdict: A truly stunning renovation that opens up Izzy’s to the next generation. –Becky Duffett
→ Izzy’s (Marina) • 3345 Steiner St • Tue-Thur 5-9p, Fri-Sat 5-10p • Reserve.
Photo: Stephanie Russo