Stone fruit

The Peach (Oakland)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: An expansive brunch emporium from the owner of Oakland sleeper hit Jo’s Modern Thai and Indonesia-born chef Juan Stevenson, The Peach opened its doors mid-December.

The Vibe: Oakland’s Grand Lake is already a perfect brunching neighborhood, packed with walk-around-the-lake charm, and The Peach fits in seamlessly. A relaxed atmosphere and interior details of pristine marble and peachy tones call for a laid-back, chic, special occasion brunch with a bunch of friends. There’s also a private room upstairs, perfect for a low-key (but still well-assembled) daytime event.

The Food: Generous, creative takes on trusted brunch dishes that live alongside the untouched classics (omelets, fried chicken with pancakes), but the best dishes on the menu offer a bit of fusion. French toast, made of fluffy milk bread, arrives at the table with miso whipped cream and a guava compote. The Caesar features fried ginger and a sesame dressing, while a lobster toast is savory and creamy, aided by a slap of Thai basil aioli. The power play: split a lobster toast and umami-loaded shrimp congee with drops of chili crunch on top, or a smashed fried chicken sandwich laced with Thai chili honey aioli. Then, close out with the sweets.

The Drink: The coffee drinks are well prepared and straightforward (coconut matcha aside). The low ABV cocktails are all excellent; the yuzu mule and the matcha espresso tonic gently buzz, but won’t turn your afternoon upside-down.

The Verdict: The see-and-be-seen big-flavors brunch spot Oakland has long deserved. –Flora Tsapovsky

→ The Peach (Oakland) • 3257 Lakeshore Ave • Tue-Sun 8a-3p • Reserve.