Victorian roots
Enclos (Sonoma)
GETAWAYS • Sonoma
The Skinny: Saison Hospitality corporate chef Brian Limoges opened Enclos in December, in partnership with Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards & Winery. Set inside a restored Victorian home near historic Sonoma Plaza, the restaurant’s restrained exterior belies the extravagance within.
The Vibe: Japanese-meets-Nordic-meets-Sonoma-County. Inside, original crown molding and stained-glass windows are juxtaposed with shou sugi ban charred wood paneling, reclaimed wine barrel floors, and fluffy textured artworks made from local wool. Almost every table in the 30-seat dining room has views of the open kitchen and wood-burning hearth. Director of dining and artist Larry Nadeau welcomes each table with a sketch, often a Sonoma landscape. The personal touch sets the tone for an elegant, approachable fine dining experience.
The Food: Produce is mostly from nearby Stone Edge Farm's 16-acre organic garden, which also supplies the honey, eggs, and olive oil. A 10-course tasting menu that vacillates between dainty dishes and comfort food is served in the main dining room, while Stone Edge Farm wine club members have access to à la carte light bites in the adjacent 25-seat, plant-filled patio lounge.
Limoges pays homage to his New England roots with a clam chowder-inspired twist on chawanmushi and bite-sized spiny lobster croustade snacks. Hand-cut tajarin pasta in a gouda, hazelnut and smoked vanilla cream sauce is loaded with freshly shaved truffles. Pastry chef Sophie Hau’s honey chestnut ice cream sandwich, dramatically presented on a honeycomb rack, is very good.
The Drink: Wine pairings are available, including from Stone Edge Farm’s Bordeaux-style library. Champagne and Bordeaux selection are also available by glass or bottle.
The Verdict: Enclos is operating with a profound attention to detail in both the kitchen and dining room, as well as dishes that capture peak NorCal flavors. –Amber Gibson
→ Enclos (Sonoma) • 139 E Napa St • Wed-Sat 5-9p • Reserve.
Photo: Adahlia Cole